Monkeys and More in Spain, 2019

I don’t want to be a travel snob, but of all my collected destinations thus far, Southern Spain’s Costa del Sol seemed to be a little bland to me– and I’ll tell you why. My guess is because it was a cruise. I love a good cruise and Windstar did not disappoint. Visiting the ports of the Costa del Sol was OK, but I think if I were to do this region again I’d rather do it as a land tour. It would have been nice to get outside of the port cities and see more of the countryside.

Seville, Spain

Our ship, the Wind Surf, departed from Lisbon, Portugal, early April 2019. Lisbon is a nice city. I can see myself going back to spend more time there.

Windstar Wind Surf Ship

On our first night onboard heading towards Cadiz, Spain, we experienced some rough seas. I was feeling a little nauseous and not sleeping well as it was… then all of a sudden in the middle of the night 2 pitchers of cold water slid off the nightstand and right on top of me. Yikes! what a way to wake up. In the hallway I could see that housekeeping was furiously running up and down the passageway cleaning rooms of other passengers with the same problem. I put in my request for dry sheets and ended up semi-falling asleep, curled up at the foot of the bed– the only dry spot, while also intermittently running to the bathroom and puking all night from sea sickness. Housekeeping did not come until around 9 am. It was a bad night. The next morning everyone onboard was talking about it, hearing that some people had the glass water pitchers break in their bed! Luckily the next day was a sea day. My husband and I were both seasick and spent most of the day in bed. That was OK, because it was a cold, rainy, windy day anyway. You can’t complain, rough seas are just part of the experience with small ship cruising, and it happens sometime. For the rest of the week the weather was beautiful and the sea was calm.

Alcazaba Fortress in Almeria

Back to why I found the port cities a little bland: they all seemed to look the same. This is a cruise itinerary where you might want to book excursions if you want to see more than cute towns with mostly tourist shops and restaurants. In Cadiz we took a excursion to Seville. Our other port stops were Malaga, Gibraltar, Almeria, Cartagena, Palma Mallorca, and disembarking in Barcelona.

My two favorite port stops were Gibraltar and Almeria. In Gibraltar we took a cable car to the top of the rock. There is a cave called St Michael’s with an amphitheater inside. In WWII it was used as a military hospital and for “girly exotic dancing” shows. Now it’s used more for weddings and concerts. The best part of Gibraltar was the monkeys. Monkeys everywhere, and we were warned not to feed them or even act like we had food or they’d be all over us. Gibraltar kind of reminded me of Monte Carlo–casinos and high-end resorts– a summer place. To top it off, there were dolphins jumping in the water as we sailed away.

Gibraltar Monkey
St Michael’s Cave, Gibraltar

The day in Almeria, Spain, was nice because is was so quiet. There were next to no tourists. We were the only ship in port and maybe it was quiet because it was a Sunday. Almeria had a real small-town feel to it–people walking dogs and families pushing babies in strollers. Apparently several spaghetti Westerns were filmed in this area in the 1960’s and 70’s.

Finally, I love cruising–dinner and drinks on the deck, the water at sunrise/sunset, and of course the food.

My Top 5 Highlights of Turkey 2015

I really hope to be back here again someday. There is so much more to see and do. I barely had enough bonding time with Turkey.
Turkish Air
What a nice airlines. We flew economy round-trip and it was as comfortable as a long haul flight could be. The food was Turkish and pretty good for airline food. Alcohol was free of charge and the selection of juices offered where OJ, apple, and cherry (?)—several people around me were ordering cherry– it must be a Turkish thing. The flight was comfortable, with individual entertainment screens in the head rest offering a great variety of movies and TV shows. There was even a channel to watch take-off and landing from camera views on the front and belly of the plane.

Cooking class for one
Before leaving on this trip, I alone from our group had signed up for a cooking class in Bodrum. As I found myself riding in the passenger seat of a car heading 18km outside of the city with a not so talkative stranger– a man named Haluk, I asked if we were picking up any other classmates from hotels. He said I was the only student that day. I have to say I started to feel a little nervous. Maybe I’ve seen too many movies about tourists wandering off the beaten path.  I just held my breath and anxiety inside until he dropped me off at a farmers market to meet up with his mother-in-law Elena. This ended up being the best experience ever! Elena showed me around the market, we bought some fresh produce, and Haluk picked us up and took us to his house in the country to cook. Haluk is an artist and he and his wife live in a sort of rustic, farm, bohemian-style house. I had a great time cooking and visiting with the 2 of them, and later we sat down for a nice home-cooked meal.

Farmers market
Farmers market

Elena and I eating our home-cooked meal
Elena and I eating our home-cooked meal

Ephesus (Kusadasi)
I had heard from other travelers that the ruins of Ephesus were not to be missed. They were right. This place is expansive, and only a small portion of it has been excavated. These ruins are in great shape and the vegetation and geography of the area felt a little like Tuscany.

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Ephesus

 

Terraced Houses, Ephesus
Terraced Houses, Ephesus

Istanbul
I loved this city—I believe I even prefer it over Athens. We were only here for a day, but it has such a vibrant young-people feel to it. Something I had been looking forward to and was a little disappointed by was the Grand Bazaar. I was expecting a more primitive outdoor flea market. From what we saw, it is basically a gigantic mall of shops. I also loved the waterfront–a busy, lively, walkway of couples pushing strollers, people with picnics on the rocks, vendors selling nuts and fruit, men sitting together playing the guitar and singing, and of course lots of cats for me to feed.

Picnic on the rocks
Picnic on the rocks

Vendor selling mussels Istanbul waterfront

Armada Hotel- Istanbul
I love quirky boutique style hotels and this one fit the bill. It sits just 1-block from the waterfront. Inside the lobby there was a turtle pond and fairly loud bird sounds. I’m not sure if the bird sounds are taped or real, but upstairs off the patio there were several cages of boisterous birds—maybe there was a microphone next to them. Anyway it sounded so relaxing and tropical in the lobby. There was a patio bar upstairs with a terrific view of the city mosques. This hotel had the most extravagant breakfast buffet I’d ever seen. In addition to the small area of actual breakfast-type food there was a variety of nuts, spices, cheeses, and a large honeycomb to scoop out. There was an orange juice station where you cut and squeeze your own oranges into a juice glass.

Honeycomb- Armada Hotel
Honeycomb- Armada Hotel

 

Squeeze your own oranges- Armada Hotel
Squeeze your own oranges- Armada Hotel

Highlights of Greece 2015

May 2015 trip to Greece and Turkey. Below are my top 5 personal highlights of Greece. I will follow soon with my list of high points of Turkey.
Food
For some reason food always seems to find its way in my “best of” blogs. I made a list of “must try foods” before leaving on my journey and I wasn’t disappointed: calamari (fresh), real Greek yogurt, baklava, fried sardines, and olives. I even found that I enjoyed eggplant and stuffed grape leaves, items I don’t normally care for.

Fresh Squid (Calamari)
Fresh Squid (Calamari)

Lunch in Santorini
Lunch in Santorini

No ships!

Unbelievable, but yes, there were no other cruise ships in the ports until the last day arriving in Istanbul. Timing and pre-season was on our side. Normally, there could be 3-4 large passenger ships sharing the island ports of calls. Yay for shoulder season! The craziest thing of all was at embarkation. When the 4 of us were dropped off at the Piraeus port terminal, we were greeted at the van by two welcoming Windstar representatives pointing us in the right direction. We were relieved because we thought we were at the wrong place since there was absolutely no crowd of other cars or buses around. Inside the terminal not a single soul besides the people working there! I kept looking around in disbelief that we were the only passengers checking-in to board the ship (or yacht, as they call it).

Santorini
Of all our island visits this one was the most surreal and indescribably beautiful–the color of the water contrasting with the white patchwork of buildings clinging on the hillside, the views from the cliff tops, and the meandering scenic walkways in the town of Oia. We had a private guide who drove us around the island to the quieter, non-touristy spots, like the Profitis Ilias (Prophet Elijah) monastery at 1800 feet above sea level.

Santorini Hillside
Santorini Hillside

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No other ships in port

Stray Cats
I had read before traveling that are lots of stray cats in Greece/Turkey, so I packed kitty treats for my little friends along the way.

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Let sleeping cats lie
Let sleeping cats lie

Swimming-

I can now say that I have swum in the Aegean Sea, well sort of. The water was way too cold, so we floated on blue mats tied to the back of the “yacht”.

Floating in the Aegean Sea
Floating in the Aegean Sea

Italy–Among Beauty and Ruins

Italy…. It exceeded my expectations. Everyone says they love Italy, everyone says they love the food. Well, I am joining in the songs of praise for Italy. I am won over.
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Rome, and I’m sure it was because of our hotel location, never felt like a lived-in city. I didn’t  see people out walking their dogs, pushing baby strollers, or carrying groceries. Our location was great for walking to most of the main attractions, but I did feel as though we were inside a tourist bubble. Looking around, I only saw other tourists. If I were to spend time in Rome again, I’d like to stay in an area were the locals live and work. Another nice memory of Rome was the abundance of orange trees and the smell of orange blossoms, mmmmm.
The crowds at the Vatican were a nightmare. Although I have to remember, it could have been worse if we hadn’t had a private guide and skip-the-line entrance tickets.

Oddities around Rome
Oddities around Rome

The high point of this trip for me was the 4-days we spent in Siena, rain and all. There was something about the dark skies and thunder as a  backdrop for the medieval architecture, narrow cobble stone streets, and Duomo, that gave the city ambiance.

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Siena
Siena

The best meal of the entire trip for me was the night of our cooking class at Scuola di Cucina in Siena. Pork loin roasted in spices, olive oil, broth, and wine… then quartered potatoes  tossed and roasted in the same pan of pork drippings. Oh….my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Scuola di Cucina, Siena, Italy
Scuola di Cucina, Siena, Italy

One day we took a drive to Montepulciano and walked through some fascinating wine cellars. They were like tunnels and stairs winding through the underground, with room after room of wine barrels. Another day was a trip to the Chianti region to visit Castello Vicchiomaggio Castle and Winery. It was a beautiful drive through the lush green hills with dark rain clouds and slices of blue sky above.
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Contina de Redi, Montepulciano, Italy

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Montepulciano, Italy
Montepulciano, Italy

 

Florence, Italy
Florence, Italy

After several quiet scenic days of Tuscany we moved on. Coming into Florence after Siena felt like entering a third world country. I was shocked back into city life–crowded, dirty, and loud. To be fair, it was an Italian holiday weekend (Labor Day). For sure the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Flore was impressive along with the statues and ruins. Florence city center is overwhelmingly a shopping area. It’s too bad that the crowds in a shopping frenzy seemed to me to drown out the ancient attractiveness of the city. Compared to our stay in Rome, this was a living city, there were people walking dogs and carrying groceries. Florence felt like a town of young people and artists. It reminded me a lot of Barcelona and the Las Ramblas area.